Original pattern size: 6
-Double-breasted wrap style
-Flared kimono sleeve
-Obi style belt
This adorable top and belt are really quick to sew. Choose a printed or embroidered fabric for a fun or fancy look, and add accent colors in the belt and/or collar. I think that I wouldn't use fabric any heavier than the quilting cotton I've used here. The kimono sleeves need a light, drapey fabric to do their thing.
Drafting the Pattern:
Follow the steps in Drafting A-line Styles and make the following changes:
1) 1/2” additional ease has been added to the side seams and sleeve underarm seams.
2) Lengthen the side seams to 15" total, and add 2" width at the hem. The side seam is straight from the armhole.
3) Armhole/sleeve. Draft a kimono sleeve as shown in chapter Drafting Sleeve Patterns. This sleeve is a flared kimono, with 1 1/2" of width added at the sleeve hem. The armhole is not altered.
4) Lower the neckline at center front 3/8” . Draft a mandarin collar as shown in Drafting Collar Patterns.
5) Closure: Draft a wrap as shown in Drafting Bodice Closures under "double-breasted bodice". Draw the wrap portion of the neckline by drawing a line from the neckline edge at center front to the side seam at waist level like so:
(at this point it'll have the sleeve pattern attached to the bodice pattern but I'm showing it here without the sleeves for simplicity's sake)
6) Style lines. None.
7) Add seam and hem allowances to all pieces. The hem and sleeve hem in the example have been finished with bias binding. (bias hem facing on the sleeves. binding on the wrap portion, a frog closure there, an obi sash with machine embroidery, regular hem at the bottom.
2 fronts-cut 1 for each side
3 collars: 1 outer collar, 1 inner collar, 1 of interfacing or heavy fabric
bias tape for hem: width=desired hem width plus two seam allowances, length=finished garment hem measurement
bias tape for wrap front binding: width=3/8" plus two seam allowances, length=the length of the front wrap edges
Obi-(please read sewing an obi-style belt)
1 front, 1 back, 2 ties
1) Sew shoulder seams, from sleeve edge to neckline:
2) Bind both of the front wrap edges, using the method for double-fold binding:
3) Attach the mandarin collar. I did a little free-motion machine embroidery on the collar after it was completely sewn.
4) Sew both side seams:
And clip the underarm curves:
I didn't make this top actually wrap, I simply sewed both fronts into the side seams. So it's a faux wrap, I suppose. If I'd wanted to make it wrap, I could have just extended the binding down the sides of the fronts to finish them. Then I would have needed to add ties at both sides.
5) Put a very narrow hem in each of the sleeves:
Any hem treatment we do on these sleeves has to be as minimal as possible. The kimono sleeve is a drapey sleeve, and we don't want the hem to stand straight out like a hoopskirt when we're finished.
6) Finish the hem. I've used a bias hem facing. (link)
7) Sew an obi-style belt to go with your top.
That's it. Here it is finished:
Have fun, and happy creating!