I have to say I'm liking the way our red dress is shaping up. Shall we go onward? Onward, then!
Now that we've done the princess seams, shoulder seams, neckline, and both sleeves, we'll need to do the zipper. Deep breath, everybody...
First we'll baste the center back seam:
Now we'll lay the zipper on the center back seam and discover it's too long:
And now we'll shorten the zipper:
We'll do that by zigzagging over the zipper where we want the new stop to be, using a stitch length of 0. Then, either tie the thread ends, or move the needle over to one side and stitch in place several stitches. I wanted the zipper to stop a couple of inches above the waist seam.
Now, because we want a lapped zipper, we're going to take the zipper and place it on the left seam allowance, okay? The side of the zipper coil needs to touch the basted seam. In a center zipper application, the teeth go right on top of the seam. For this one, the coil goes right up next to it.
Now, with a zipper foot, we're going to baste the zipper tape to the seam allowance. Remember to breathe. Don't bite your tongue off.
When we get to the zipper pull, we'll just put the needle down in the fabric, lift the foot up, and weasel that baby down out of the way. Then put the foot down and finish going up the zipper tape.
Now we're going to flip the zipper right side up and stitch that fold right up close to the zipper coil:
I should actually have folded that fold closer even than I did to that coil, as we shall see in a minute.
Now we're going to grab the free zipper tape and yank it to the other seam allowance:
Pin that, baste that, and flip the whole thing right side out so we're looking at the back of the bodice:
And we're going to put in that topstitching you see there. From the basted seam, across the bottom of the zipper tape, and up to the top. I realize that there are all kinds of tricks to make the perfect topstitched zipper, but I *gasp* eyeballed it.
My only issue with the finished zipper was that unevenness (can you see it?) at the neck edge. Sometimes, despite our best efforts, crazy stuff like this happens. The rest of the back fits together perfectly, so why did the neck edge end up uneven? Probably the slick-slippery fabric. (Certainly not my own fault, for sure.)
So at this point, we probably should rip out the whole thing and figure out why it's uneven, and sew it up again.
You don't want to? Can't say I blame you.
Here you can see what I did instead of the ripping I would have done if I were a good girl:
And this photo shows the next step also. Yes, that is a hair covered elastic rubber band thing, and not some special button loop. I tied it off the size I wanted it, and whipstitched it in place.
Adding a covered button gives us this:
Now we'll pin the side seams up:
Matching, of course, the waistline clip, the armhole seam, the hem and the sleeve hem. We'll sew those, finish those, press, turn it right side out....
And there's our bodice!
Not too shabby!
See how that zipper still shows juuust a little? I think it had to do with not pushing that fold close enough to the zipper coil. Still, it's not enough to bother me.
At this point, I did create the skirt, but, due to overestimation of my own skill, had to spend most of the afternoon getting comfortable with my seam ripper. I figure that a seam ripper isn't designed to make you hate life, it's just around when you are, so you project your feelings onto it at the time. So, since I figure there are about two ways you can feel about ripping seams, and your seam ripper doesn't care either way, we all might just as well make peace with this harmless, helpful tool.
Breathing in. Breathing out. I love my seam ripper.
And I will see you back here, for more red dress fun, after I find where I've thrown it.