We seem to have pretty varied ideas about our Christmas party dress, but here's what I'm hearing the most:
So we'll proceed with a square neckline, cap sleeves, and shirred front.
Again, our seven step pattern drafting checklist...
5) Style Lines
7) Seam and Hem Allowance
We're going to do a below-waist princess bodice with a tiered skirt. First we need to make the princess seams and lengthen the waist. More, of course, about this in the Princess Styles lesson on the lessons page.
I've added 4" in length.
Now, I'm only going to add enough flare at the seams to ensure ease at the hips. So I'll take a hip measurement, 24", and add 10% for ease, and end up with 26.4". I find that the waist after the dart is removed is 23.65". So we need to add 2.75" into our seams here.
Since we'll be adding width on each side of each princess seam and each side of each side seam, we have 12 opportunities to add width. 2.75 divided by 12 is just shy of 1/4". So we'll add 1/4" (the little purple wedges in the illustration there) to each pertinent seam.
Since we're going to be using a sleeve, we won't alter the armhole. We're going to use a cap sleeve that's puffed just a little. Instructions on creating the cap sleeve can be found in the Sleeve Styles lesson on the lessons page.
What we'll end up with is something that looks a little like what we've got on the top here. I think a 2" sleeve will be adequate.
Then we'll add a little gathering at the top by cutting the sleeve and adding a little wedge like in the bottom illustration.
Because this sleeve has a curved hem, we'll need to face this sleeve. So we'll need a sleeve lining pattern. It seems to me we can use either the original cap sleeve pattern, or the one with the gathers at the cap for our lining pattern. What do you think? Which one ought we to use?
That's all for today. Tomorrow we'll move on to the neckline. See you then!