sewing a continuous bound placket

Do you know how to sew a continuous bound placket? (I say, as though I'm the final authority on the thing.)

I'll show you how I do mine.

First, what is a continuous bound placket? It's a way to finish a cut in fabric with a binding, basically, and it looks like this:

When it's folded closed it's all but invisible.

It's used at the top back of attached skirts, especially when the yoke seam is high, to provide enough of an opening to get dressed. It can also be used at the edge of long sleeves. I'm sure there are other places to use this placket, but since I use them so very much in the back of dresses, that's what I'll show you.

First, draw a straight line, perpendicular to the waist seam, the length of the placket. Sew a "V", starting 1/4" from the left side of the line, pivoting at the end of the line, and coming back up to end 1/4" away from the line on the other side. (If you actually draw these lines also, you might end up with straighter lines than mine.)

Now, cut a piece of fabric from the lengthwise grain (lengthwise grain is the most stable) that's twice as long as your intended finished placket, and 1 1/2" wide.

Press it in half, lengthwise, wrong sides together. Unfold it and press the long edges in to the center fold. You'll end up with this:

Now, cut the along the pencil line on the skirt down to the bottom of the "V", but don't cut through the stitching. Open the placket strip and lay it flat on the table, right side up. Spread the cut in the skirt wide open and lay the stitching along the fold of the placket strip like this:

(Right side of the placket to the wrong side of the skirt)

You'll notice that the seam allowance on the skirt starts out being 1/4", tapers down to nothing, then tapers back up to 1/4". That's the plan, don't worry.

Now, sew all along the first stitching, and just a hair to the left.  When you get to the very middle point there, where there's no seam allowance, carefully adjust the fabric so that you don't sew in a fold at the bottom of the placket. Holding your tongue between your teeth just so helps a lot.

When you've done that, press the placket away from the skirt. Fold the raw edge of the placket to the center, fold the fold around to the front:

And pin it, making sure that the fold covers the stitching you just did. Pin it like mad.

Now topstitch very very close to that folded edge, making sure all the while that the placket fold covers that stitching.

Press the placket now. This pressing makes the whole thing look sharp and pretty.

Fold the placket together like this:

And sew a little diagonal line across the bottom, to keep the placket in its place. Turn the skirt to the right side, and sew the right side of the placket at the top. The skirt/bodice seam will keep this in place eventually, but I find that if I don't go ahead and sew it down now, I forget that it's supposed to go down at all, and make a mess of things later.

So do this, and gently press the whole thing again, pat yourself on the back, and get on with the rest of your dress!

~E~

Other plackets, just for lookin' at:

Comments

[Grace]

Oh my goodness, thank you for this. I was giving myself a heart attack struggling with a placket tonight. After reading this, I have confidence to try again in the morning.

[children's fashion workshop]

So glad to help! Good luck, you can do it!
-E-

[1st Time Sewer]

Made my first placket using this. Now I have courage to try some of your other tutorials. I can't wait to try that darling apron dress! Wish me luck :)

[children's fashion workshop]

Oh, yes, best of luck! You can do it! :)
~Erin~

[Ann]

Thank you so very much. I've read about Continuous Plackets in pattern instructions, 3 sewing books, and dozens of online tutorials. I never could understand the explanations or the pictures. Last night I finally gave up trying to create the continuous placket on my granddaughter's dress. I thought I'd never learn. Now I find your instructions - wonderful! Your explanations are clear and your pictures are EXCELLENT. I understand! Thank you and God bless you!

[Debby]

You sure made that placket look easy. I held my tongue between my teeth and it turned out great. Thanks Erin.

[Sandy]

Thank you so much for the tutorial. I finished my placket with your help.

[Philippa]

That's the best set of instrucrtions I have ever followed - perfectly described in words and supported with clear photos. Have you thought of offering your services to the government department of ambiguous forms?! Thanks.

[Sherry]

Thank you, thank you, so much! Before seeing your instructions, I thought I was going to pull my hair out! I am such a visual person, that I have to see how something looks along with the instructions in order to understand how something needs to be done. Seeing it, says it all. Thanks again. Sherry

[Olivia]

Thank you soooooooo much. This is a life saver!

[Judy]

I was working on a placket this afternoon and it never seems right down in that little "v" and now I know why. I need to taper almost to the very edge when I get down in that little "v" and then back up to the 1/4".

Thank-you so much for this great tutorial.

Judy

[Sew Tzanua]

Thank you very much for this tutorial. It's very helpful. I've referenced it in my blog, http://modestjewishclothing.blogspot.com/2012/04/home-made-girls-buttoned-down-shirt.html.

[Nancy]

Struggling to re-learn sewing after decades of only mending and curtains and such. Determined to hand smock dresses for our new granddaughter I could not figure out the pattern directions for putting in a placket. You saved the day! It looks great! Thanks for sharing.

[LiL_Chick]

Thanks For this website finally i know what to do in Placket thank you very much:))

[laleh]

tank
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[Nicole]

Thank you so so much!!! I cam across this post after trying many other you tube videos etc, and I have just completed my first perfect placket!!!! Great tutorial! Thank you!

[Lesley]

Thank you so much; you have no idea how many you tubes and articles I read trying to understand what to do with a "continuous lap" or "placket"! I was so elated when I found your article and could actually understand it! The only sentence I didn't understand (could be because I was exhausted by that time) was, "Turn the skirt to the right side, and sew the right side of the placket at the top". Otherwise, it all went smoothly and I can't believe it's done!! Thank you!