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double fold hem

A double-fold hem is just that.  A hem, folded up twice, and secured to the garment.  

If we make a deep fold, like in the diagram at the far left, the hem adds weight to a light fabric, and visual weight to a semi-sheer one.  

If we make a shallow fold, we can keep the bulk down on a heavier fabric, like a linen or a light corduroy.  

A double-fold hem is a good finish for ruffles, sleeves, pants legs, and so on.  

To figure how much fabric to add for a hem, simply add the length of the hem itself (say, 3" for a nice deep dress hem) plus the length of the inner fold (perhaps 1/2" for a non-sheer, decently heavy fabric). 

Then, make the first fold , pin and and press it:

If you're going to be topstitching the hem, as in the picture below, and the first and second folds are the same depth, you can make the second fold as you sew, turning and sewing at the same time.  The first fold will give you a guide for making the second fold.  

Otherwise, pin up the second fold and press:

Now you can topstitch, slipstitch, or catchstitch the upper hem edge, or finish with a blind hem


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    double fold hem - sewing bits - Children's Fashion Workshop

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